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Antonio Berardi Womenswear S/S10

The former London Fashion Week star returns in a dramatic setting.

PhotographyPatrick Lindblom

London didn't come into play at all into Antonio Berardi's collection, as his return to London for the 25th anniversary with the help of Peroni Nastro Azzuro was only very recently confirmed. Of course, after many seasons away showing in Milan and in Paris, Berardi has reached a point where his signature of power-dressing that reflects his half-Sicilian, half-British heritage is so firmly established, that changing it up wasn't really going to be necessary. This season's faint thematic injection came courtesy of Japanese samurais, which Berardi referenced through pieces like the laced-up corsets encrusted with gems that mirrored the ridged structure of a samurai uniform. Another bit of Japanese attire came with the swinging silk kimonos, which Berardi has used before because as he explains, "I love the way they move and I just think they're amazing. It's an extraordinary garment!" Berardi wanted to create something that was barely there but this was achieved through the palette as his particular kind of tailoring still dominated the show. When asked how he felt about returning to London though, a hint of young designer nerves was still knocking about; "I haven't been so scared in years! But it's really refreshing to be back here!."