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That Fresh Breeze Called El Delgado Buil

Macarena and Ana of El Delgado Buil break the boundaries in the Spanish fashion scene

For the past four years they have been pushing the boundaries of national fashion design with inspiring colour palettes and subtlety-retro-inspired shapes mixtures that, fashionably speaking, are definitely that cool fresh breeze everybody wants to breathe.
But it is when you see them in their atelier-shop in C/Lledó 4-6 (right in the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic district) surrounded by patterns, sketches, massive rolls of fabric and mood boards all over that you can actually understand why Macarena and Ana (a.k.a. El Delgado Buil) are clearly among the most promising young brands in the Spanish fashion scene. And it is when you hear them talking about their work, both so passionate and secure, complementing and reaffirming each other so naturally, that you really get to know why you should keep and eye on this perfect tandem.

Dazed Digital: El Delgado Buil’s style is…
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: That’s the million dollar question! We would say it is fresh, urban, and also sensitive with the times we are living in and mostly with the things that happen to us both.

DD: What works for you when looking for some inspiration?
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: Lots of things. We feel like trying new different things all the time. Last season it was fur, there was a story about animals, the previous one it was the world of porcelain which, in theory, has no connection. Truth is, we find inspiration in what we fancy at the moment which, funny enough, always seems to be the same thing. We never have problems choosing a theme.

DD: So, you have just mentioned Super Furry Animals, your A/W 09/10 collection, tell me more about it...
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: Well, there’s a lot of fur; we created a story in our minds about super furry animals, just as the title says. We worked in collaboration with a company specialized in rabbit fur, we had the chance to show it in the collection later on, and we thought it could be a good idea. We also added some velvet fabric and cashmere later on which, in fact, could also be considered some kind of fur; we even used fur in the printings! It was all fur and colour; we were not interested in the idea of the animal but just in the coloured fur. We thought it could be interesting to mix both ideas because the way we use colours is quite characteristic of our work.

DD: Your earlier collections seemed to be more focused, almost totally I would say, on menswear, but gradually you have been increasing the number of feminine outfits in them, did boys complain too much about their girlfriends taking your garments from their closets?
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: Yes, we were actually much more focused in menswear when we started to design but we are girls in the end, you know, and at the moment we are even reconsidering if we should increase our women’s wear collection. It is always easier for us to think about how to dress a girl, even functionally, because you always know what you would like to wear.

DD: Do you usually wear the garments you design?
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: Yes, definitely. There can be some garments in the collection that might not really suit us, maybe because of the volume or the colour, but we make them anyway, because we like them and because we don’t only think about ourselves.

DD: Your inspiration has changed between your two latest collections from the classic Lladró porcelain pieces to the coloured fur, how can someone make such a change and still look coherent?
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: Sometimes, the initial themes can be surprising but in the end its interpretation is ours. It might be difficult to understand the jump from one theme to another, especially with three seasons in between, but there’s an evolution, an understandable and coherent thread collection after collection. Quite often a collection is like an answer or the following chapter of the previous one.

DD: You have recently been featured in the book 100 New Fashion Designers by Hywel Davies, as being amongst the 100 most promising designers worldwide, what kind of satisfaction (or pressure) does this mean?
Anna Figuera and Macarena Ramos: There’s no pressure at all! In fact, it was something that made us really happy. Pressure is something you have to face on your day to day with all the problems you can encounter, but when somebody thinks of you for something like this, it can only make you feel better, because it really is the result of our work.