If the recent AW19 menswear shows have taught us anything, it’s that there’s never been a better time to dig out your vintage favourites. One brand that understands this better than most is Italian menswear label Corelate, whose signature aesthetic is tied to the idea of fusing the past with the present.
Since founding Corelate back in 2015, designer Maurizio Tedeschi has consistently worked with the idea of teaming old-school fabrics with relaxed, contemporary silhouettes. The brand’s AW19 collection – soon to be shown in both Paris and New York at the MAN SHOW tradeshows – is no different; there are nods to fashion history in flashes of lurex and carefully-cuffed plaid, but the patched-up shirts and chains hanging from trouser pockets add interest to tried-and-tested favourites.
The lookbook is shot against a simple studio backdrop that you probably wouldn’t be surprised to see on school picture day, keeping you focused on the collection itself and the styling. And how much better your school photos would have looked if you’d been wearing one of these outfits.
As for the knitwear, imagine a slightly deconstructed take on your parents’ winter warmers. The silhouettes are deliberately short and boxy – an obvious throwback to the 1970s – while loose threads of metallic, multicoloured lurex are a consistent detail throughout the collection. There’s also an emphasis on comfort that runs throughout the new line. It’s often difficult to achieve sophistication without making a few sacrifices. But this isn’t the case here: overcoats and suit trousers are engineered in softly structured wool and felt, which make them easy and comfortable to wear.
Although the visual codes of style tribes past and present – think punk chains, preppy jumpers and grungy flannels – are woven into the collection, there’s something distinctive about Corelate’s ability to blend these references together. These are clothes for a digital generation used to cherry-picking vintage references and stitching them into a look that’s new; an aesthetic that nods the past while still facing firmly towards the future.