In recent years Proenza Schouler has honed their design signature to the extent that some fashion-y things are just synonymous with them. The sly, skewed ruffle on the sleeve of a dress. A boxy jacket, this time with an extra half jacket on top (look at the pictures to understand what that could mean). Glimmering, complicated and beautiful dresses with cutaway hips.
Yesterday these came together for a stellar outing from Jack and Lazaro. In an abandoned office space, they played upon familiar tropes in front of their art house audience (Rachel Feinstein, Dan Colen, Petra Collins), as models marched by to an at times both tense and kind of jazzy soundtrack. It was their show opening tailoring that really stood out – model Cleo Cwiek, with her shaved head, held her clutch close to her body, the Proenza branded straps of her coat streaming behind her.
The real news, however, is that Proenza is leaving New York's show season for Paris haute couture; this will mean they deliver the collection earlier to the sales floor, plus, you know, Paris. This seems like something of a blow – the duo's show is one of the highlights of New York. Perhaps, however, it'll give them even more ideas to play with. Never a bad thing.
