After Shenzhen Fashion Week wraps up, we spotlight the five strongest design talents
Shenzhen Fashion Week is a friendly reminder that exciting things are happening in cities outside of New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion week calendars. Tokyo and Seoul recently wrapped and the fashion world' has caught on to their greatness, but we’re here to clue you in on Shenzhen Fashion Week – although, not to brag or anything, we already did that last year. As the most recent bout of shows demonstrated, there’s still something in the Shenzhen sartorial water. It was a struggle to round up five highlights from the week, but here goes...
Marisfrolg are Shenzhen fashion world royalty. They’d fit nicely on an Opening Ceremony rack, but not in the Jeremy Scott/Hood By Air section. Last year, they nabbed the in-demand Soo Joo Park to open their show, but this time around they stuck with their The Row-meets Stella McCartney aesthetic, but with a punch – and perhaps a few Comme Des Garçons and Issey Miyake circa 1980s moments. Sweet eye-candy highlights: a posh but playful charcoal trench, a simple sheer turtleneck paired with a quirky (hot pink/neon plum coloured fur/floral print) skirt. Their styling/glam game was also on point: there was the natural makeup thing and a casually pinned side hair part; flats with socks and a singular statement earring. Slay 'em with simplicity.
Another SZFW designer with the penchant for the zany is JTK ZHENG. Insert Marilyn Manson roaring his "Sweet Dreams" cover on loop whilst models, many with disheveled locks and strung out eyes, pumped the moody catwalk in lots of leather/maybe pleather (an immaculate trench, a floppy bucket hat, keychain-ish guns dangling from biker jackets/gun temp tattoos). Pairing the classic houndstooth pattern with the aforementioned punk elements was a nice head-turning touch. Maybe the inspiration was biker gangs applying for office jobs, or something.
Goth glam line ODBO rocked out with a shadowy showing last year, so the return of the severe fog machines and industrial rock soundtrack in on-brand form was no surprise. As for the dark duds, they were once again witchy but wearable, particularly the women's outerwear. (Men's was on the safer “health goth” side.) See also: the oversized wrinkled collared bomber replete with metallic silver embellishments, which may or may not have been teardrops. ODBO also really knows how to do an American Horror Story: Coven-friendly hood/hat.
Things got wonderfully weird at Y-VISON-HOMME. A yummy Nicopanda and Simone Rocha sartorial smoothie. Other I-swear-I’m-not-high interpretations: a punch-drunk Audrey Hepburn (those massive costume pearl necklaces) discovered the gelled baby hair craze and then went to a Candy Land-meets-Grease-themed prom…(They were really into a big bell sleeve and a ruffle this season.) You also thought of Shelley iconic Duvall as Little Bo Beep in Mother Goose Rock 'n' Rhyme (If you haven't seen this gem, which also stars Little Richard clad in a pink wig/pink everything, now is the time!) It was all over the zany place. And it was sweet.
I LOVE PRETTY
I LOVE PRETTY's kind of pretty includes chunky chokers, midriffs, a dark lip/gelled middle part combos and the eccentric etcetera. Charli XCX would be a great brand ambassador. Yes, there was a lot to love. Like that tulle deep v-neck midriff. Yes, that's a thing. An off the shoulder, flared long-sleeve shirt may sound vilely atrocious, but it was also a punk and pretty thing. In other words, someone get VFiles on the line for a Hot Topic collab ASAP.