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Scott Ramsay Kyle A/W 09

Scott Ramsay Kyle presented during London Fashion Week his new collection with a short film by Amy Gwatkin.

There’s a bit of Danny Williams and a touch of Valley of the Dolls in the video shot by Amy Gwatkin to present Scott Ramsay Kyle's new collection. But, apart from the cinematic and arty connections, there is an emphasis on craftsmanship as the blow up images of Ramsay Kyle’s embroideries projected on the walls behind the model featured in the film offer the chance to focus on the handmade details of the designs. In Ramsay Kyle’s new collection swirling motifs created with different yarns are alternated with gold coins, beads and studs to offer the wearer a three-dimensional tactile experience.
Dazed Digital: Can you tell us more about the inspirations for your A/W 09 collection?
Scott Ramsay Kyle: Folk art and the idea of trapping things into stitches inspired the embroidery. I’ve also been in Paris quite a bit recently and making beautiful handmade things also inspired my work. For the film, we were thinking about Valley of the Dolls and a drunken debutante and I have been watching a lot A Walk into the Sea, a film by Warhol Factory’s Danny Williams.
DD: Is there a main theme behind your new collection?
Scott Ramsey Kyle: I don’t usually work with a theme, I start from the technique and the material and then use them as stimuli. In the next few months, for example, I’d like to explore wall murals. In the film we wanted to fuse the art and craft aspects of the embellishments by blowing the embroidery up on the projector and re-projecting it onto the wall. The girl in the film - wearing these garments that have an element of performance thanks to their simple yet sculptural silhouette - is almost pissed against these projected pieces of art.
DD: How many designs does the new collection feature and what kind of fabrics did you choose for them?
SRK: It’s a small collection as there are 6 pieces in total and they’re a mixture of lambswool panels with cashmere embroidery re-appliqued. The embroidery is then felted with 100% wool yarns and enriched with beads, gold coins from a Parisian flea market and Swarovski pearls and studs. It’s very luxurious.
DD: Did you enjoy shooting the video with Amy Gwatkin?
SRK: I love Amy, we’ve worked together before and have another project pencilled for next month. She’s totally obsessed and loves what she does and makes her collaborators quickly envisage what her thoughts are. Even after an all-night of editing she’s still gorgeous.
DD: Do you find that a video presentation can be a good option for young designers to showcase their collections?   
SRK: Yes, I do. I’m happy to make the collection more of a presentation and use the camera to emphasise the tactility of the pieces. As I have been consulting with two other labels this season, I was happy that a film would still show people what I do without the major commitment of doing a catwalk. I’m much more happy with the film than with having to deal with the anti-climax of doing a catwalk.
DD: Who would you like to see wearing the designs from your latest collection?
SRK: I’m in love with Marion Cotillard and would like to see her in my designs. That said, some of my designs were part of an exhibition at the V&A this season and I must admit it was cool to see the designs hanging in there. I’m happy to have the dresses trapped behind glass and framed as this turns my dresses into pieces of contemporary art and makes me want to continue to push the craft aspect forward.

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