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Ann Demeulemeester AW15, Dazed backstage, Womenswear, Paris
Backstage at Ann Demeulemeester AW15Photography Lea Colombo

Ann Demeulemeester AW15

Sebastien Meunier plays down the poetics and amps up the references – with Beetlejuice stripes and smudged Clockwork Orange eyes

TextSusie LauPhotographyLea Colombo

Initial reaction:

Poetic Beetlejuice striping contrasts with soft black cocooning jackets, as Sebastien Meunier strives to add his own language to the familiar Ann Demeulemeester mix. The vertical lines direct attention to the ground – which is what Meunier was aiming for, as he plays down the poetics and instead subtly injects his own contemporary art references to add distance. Emotion is all well and good, but sharp tailoring, toughened up armour in the form of waist cinching wide belts and stomping boots are what’s required for the real world.

How it was worn:

With smudged lower lashes for an emotional take on A Clockwork Orange eyes, and mussed up wet-look hair wrapped around the neck like a natural polo neck. Signature Ann D-isms abounded with the leather belts that jutted out like sculptures flaying about at the waist, and leather opera gloves ruched up to meet the cropped sleeves of jackets.  

Bygone beats:

A hint of the past as Nick Cave and Current 93’s “All the Pretty Little Horses” kicked off the soundtrack, ending with a haunting cover version of Nancy Sinatra’s “Bang Bang”. The soundtrack harked back to Ann Demeulemeester shows of old when sounds hung heavy in the air, as the clothes did on your mind.

The soundtrack to Ann Demeulemeester AW15: