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Giorgio Armani AW15 Dazed backstage Womenswear embroidered
Backstage at Giorgio Armani AW15Photography Virginia Arcaro

Giorgio Armani AW15

From Monet to Marc Chagall and Italian futurism, Armani looks to the arts and his own archive to celebrate 40 years

Initial reaction: 

Armani’s infatuation with his own blue period once again rears its head in a softly spoken collection that undulates in turquoises, aquamarines and mauves, in tactile textures like patchwork suede and mohair fringing. Trousers come with layered skirt attachments and Peter Pan collars are worn askew for an off-beat approach to daywear. When the lights dim – that’s when Armani’s red carpet prowess really comes to the fore as geometric brushstroke embroidered jackets and evening tops with sleek black trousers represent the best of Armani’s vast scope.

Art appreciation:

Milanese designers must be doing a lot of gallery hopping or delving into the art section of libraries, as Armani rounded off the week with a passage of part Marc Chagall, part Italian futurist patterns brought to life in eveningwear collages of pleated chiffon, beading and sequins. Monet’s “Water Lilies” – another known Armani reference – popped up in the colours and the vaguely floral patterning of a true blue crystal mesh dress.

40th anniversary:

It’s a big year for Giorgio Armani as he gears up to celebrate his 40th anniversary. A museum dedicated to Armani’s archives is in the process of being finished across the road from his show venue on Via Bergognone. It’s easy to call the collection a retrospective. In essence, Armani reiterates his strengths – a serene colour palette, informal tailoring and ease-filled silhouettes – in every collection because his 40 years of building an independently-owned global empire is his trump card. Perhaps that’s why there were no show notes in this instance. Armani needs no explanations.