Initial reaction:

A volte-face from all things balletic, Tomas Maier proposed an eclectic character for Bottega Veneta. Edie Campbell opened the show in a Yayoi Kusama-esque polka dotted shirt and masculine trousers which was a head turner. The show notes read: “This is not about meticulous dressing but taking a bit of a bolder approach when it comes to pattern and colour. The collection explores the possibilities of beautifully made clothes that express your own individual creativity.” Individualism for Maier meant being able to cherry pick from 70s sweater vests and slinky blouses, modish clear-panelled leather raincoats, geometric knitwear and hard-shouldered coats and for the evening, layered lace dresses and silk jacquard shifts. Every outfit seemed emboldened with a whole host of abstract art references as a celebration of iconoclasm. For a brand that largely promotes quiet luxury, the volume was certainly turned up high.   

Prokofiev’s masterpiece:

“Each character in the tale is going to be represented by a different instrument of the orchestra,” said the familiar voiceover from Prokofiev’s famous children’s composition “Peter and the Wolf”. Famous narrators of the story from different productions in the past have included Eleanor Roosevelt, Mia Farrow, David Bowie and David Attenborough. The soundtrack served as a contrast to the poppy mid-20th century geometric abstractions seen on the clothes and also stuck with you as a gesture. Just as its narrators have changed from one individual to another, so it is that Maier is injecting Bottega Veneta with more of an individual spirit.  

Art attack:

You could have picked out any number of abstractionists from the clothes. Victor Vasarely’s mind-altering dots dominated the collection. Sonia and Robert Delaunay’s soft-edged brush strokes were needle punched on to wool. Josef Albers’ colour combinations. Bridget Riley-esque patterns embedded into the geometric lace and layered up to confuse the eye. They weren’t necessarily direct references but the point was to go bold in print and pattern where Maier perhaps hadn’t gone before in his tenure at Bottega Veneta. The point may have also been to direct this collection at the art appreciators of this world that understand the importance of individual expression.

The soundtrack to Bottega Veneta AW15: