Initial reaction:
Chitose Abe shied away from the signature pleating, volumising, cutting and splicing seen in her womenswear to create a set of Sacai menswear essentials – like a striped blanket that cocooned the body innocuously, but actually looked like an alternative to a coat. Khaki and similar members of its colour family dominated the collection, giving the clothes a sense of pragmatism. Puffer jackets, parkas and combat trousers sought to destroy any notion that Abe solely does layers of complexity.
Sanctified showspace:
In the Temple Protestant de l'Oratoire du Louvre, models moved from plinth to plinth silently as we – the churchgoers – took our seats inside the Protestant place of worship. The sun had finally come out and flooded the space with a dusty light, and an artificial smoke filled the gaps.
How it was worn:
It may have been an autumn/winter collection but the luxury Birkenstock sandal still persists, albeit with thick socks. Many of the boys wore bucket hats that obscured their eyes, adding to the mysterious vibe in the contemplative setting.
 Backstage at Sacai AW15)
