Initial reaction:
Sensual Robert Mapplethorpe-esque dreamer characters who have taken tailoring into their own hands and run with it. The proportions and attitude of grey suiting and overcoats are shifted. There was a vague whiff of the 70s, seen in the high-waisted trousers and the oversized cuts – an underlying pattern in this season's shows – that, when muted and paired back in a restrained palette, give off the feeling of a luxurious slacker. Backstage, Lucas Ossendrijver admitted he’s somewhere between being a dreamer and a realist, someone who seeks to provoke and be pragmatic. That’s the balance that was struck here.
Stand out pieces:
The finale bonded neoprene overcoat – the perfect protective shield against the world – and the opening grey mélange structured jacket, worn sans shirt.
Soundtrack:
The brooding sound of “Science and Industry” by Andy Stott, and “Happy House” by Siouxsie and the Banshees. “The house might not be happy - we live in a strange moment,” remarked Ossendrijver about that particular track.
The soundtrack to Lanvin AW15:
