Initial reaction:
Precision-cut elegance with a slacker sensibility, served up by the brand’s new creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga – who has previously clocked up time at Prada, Romeo Gigli and Vionnet – for his first menswear outing.
Crank up the volume:
Paglialunga gave the Jil boy some room to breathe with oversize coats and baggy trousers held in place by waist-defining belts. This was youthful volume done with elegance and a tailored nonchalance, where slouchy 50s-via-70s waffle knits were tucked neatly into trousers that fell in almost tracksuit bottom-like puddles.
Rubberwear:
There was something ever so slightly sick and fetishistic about the thick-soled rubber boots, which came in colours including clinical hospital white and Hazmat orange. This season’s footwear added an odd allure to the baggy yet streamlined tailoring.
The soundtrack to Jil Sander AW15:
