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Backstage at Ann Demeulemeester SS15 Dazed
Backstage at Ann Demeulemeester SS15Photography Jacques Habbah

Ann Demeulemeester SS15

Funereal noir, ethereal white and then back to black – Sébastien Meunier shows a confident second collection at the helm of the Belgian brand

Initial reaction:

A spiritual journey broken up into distinct passages beginning and ending with Ann Demeulmeester's mysterious ways with the colour black. Demeulemeester's design team, headed up by Sébastien Meunier (and confidently so – he emerged to take a bow for this womenswear show) also know what noir is all about. They opened with an array of black textures worn on asymmetric patchworked waistcoats, trailing white shirts and dropped waisted trousers, with multiple strings attached. Those strings certainly are still strongly tied to Demeulemeester's spiritual presence and how the team shift things forward will be interesting to see.  

How it was worn:

Knotted up hair that was teased and tufted out in a haphazard manner, and a striking graphic streak of black or white above the eye depending on whether the girl was yin or yang. They also stomped about in scribble print chunky boots.   


The show was split up into three sections, marked by the soundtrack – beginning with Duke Garwood's gritty track "The Horror" to accompany the layers of funereal black Victoriana fabrics, a chill out soundscape for the lightened up ethereal looks in white, and then finally Neil Young's "Sign of Love" as we go back to black.  

The soundtrack to Ann Demeulemeester SS15: