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Photography by Jacques Habbah

Yohji Yamamoto SS14

A deconstructed rave: neon layers, subtle feminine silhouettes and pieced together suiting

Initial reaction:

Gone ravin’ in stomping boots and neon layers.

Invitation:

Neon orange – an indication of things to come.

Stand out looks:

The slatted dress in emergency orange revealing peeps of skin beneath, and the maroon, randomly gathered and sheer dress with bright blue sleeves that morphed into gloves.

Unexpected details:

Deconstructed shoulders and sleeves reattached with lacing, ties and bows on sharply cut suits, and the criss cross of braces over white shirts hinting at bondage.

Silhouette:

Subtly feminine, with the suggestion of corset shapes in amongst the layers of neon.

Hair:

Like powdered grey judges’ wigs, teased and torn and tied to the head, with wired plaits and schoolgirl bunches.

Shoes:

Masculine brogues for the formal looks, and neon Doc Marten-like boots for all those raving bright layers.

Prints:

A pixelated camouflage on loose shirt and skirt combos, buttoned once at the waist.

Model behaviour:

Yumi Lambert in the ‘Yamamoto Army’ finale of deconstructed shirts and suiting, eyebrows blanked out and a sweep of white shadow across the eyes and temples.

Left us wanting:

One or two of the final oversized shirts in orange, black or blue, belted in neon. A perfect distillation of the collection.