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Photography by Jacques Habbah

Issey Miyake SS14

To the sound of electrostatic percussion came perforated pleats and sunrise prints

Initial reaction:

White has never looked so complex.


Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gave the title ‘wearing light’, and shifts in colour seemed to represent sunrise and the dark of moonlight.

Design identity:

The folds, pleats, complex cut and origami shapes gave texture to all-white looks.

Stand out look:

The next level of white shirt: slightly pulled at the waist, allowing the shoulders and sleeves to cascade out in a series of overlapping pleats and folds.

Colour impressions:

The sun set in ombre stripes of red, orange and white, shifting to a harsher morning blue light and the colour-mash of day in crisscrossing strips of rainbow. All printed on the lightest of fabrics.

Unexpected details:

The perforated lines of holes in the opening pieces gave the impression of pleats, and allowed the fabric to crisply fold – like fold-and-tear paper.


A live soundtrack by Japanese musician Ei Wada, who transformed television screens into percussion instruments, using the light and electrostatic emitted to create sound. 


Models walked with a slight smile, unnerving for show goers used to poker faces – not as brash as the Rick Owens spectacle, but change is a-foot in Paris.


A monochrome grid pattern bag, and white square-perforated cuff emulated the subtle grid pattern in city-shorts and jacket, created with tiny ridged folds.


Subtle lift at the crown and the absence of bands or grips transformed an every day ponytail into a sophisticated mohican.