For Aldo Maria Camillo’s second collection for the house of Cerruti, the former Valentino designer continued to revive the brand’s classic, Italian-rooted style.

The opening looks were slickly suited combinations of cigarette trousers with single-breasted blazers and double-breasted coats, topped off with an equally cool pair of shades. An expertly tailored but entirely black presentation save for the flash of a white shirt collar, Camillo soon eased up his colour palette to include pale khaki, satin-sheen bordeaux, slate gray and olive.

From then on, the collection advanced to more adventurous and youthful looks like a plaid bomber jacket, open trench coats with half-belts fastened across the chest and mandarin-collared jackets with swirling naval rope prints. This modern aesthetic was aided by the flowing, unlined and at times sheer structure of each look, plus a range of materials including brocade and moiré.

While the identity of the Cerruti man still remains a mystery and perhaps a bit undefined two seasons in, Camillo’s risk-taking in texture and cut are indicators of an interesting future for the fashion house.