"I wanted something comfortable and rounded with the crepe fabric and silhouettes, inspired a little by the sixties." Comfortable? The Anthony Vaccarello woman, who has been known to stalk about in a too-short, too-tight-but-just-right dress? Well, if this is Vaccarello doing comfort, then it's still trademarked with a sensual but steely edge. You wouldn't have known that this was Vaccarello's first venture into leather or knitwear judging by the oversized butter-soft leather parka and a blouson shirt dress with the sleeves pushed up or the roomy mohair knits. These were signs that Vaccarello is expanding his repertoire, growingly slowly, season by season, proving to all that he ain't no one trick dress pony.
All this talk of comfort and softness though came to a crashing thud when Vaccarello decided to rev it all up, citing the word "mechanique" and using all manner of metal hardware. Linked bars worked into cuffs and across jackets, giant spikes placed at the hips of low-slung kilt miniskirts and finally a blown-up chainmail that snaked its way around the body, which strategically zoomed in on a woman’s most sensual areas – the nape of the neck, the tops of the thighs, the sweep of flesh from breast to hip. Vaccarello shows us once again how to do tasteful provocation. In the end it was those sweeping long gowns that put the bare legs of model supers like Isabeli Fontana forward, concealing the rest of the body in an ooze of black and gun metal.