If the atmosphere inside the Gucci show was anything to go by, then Frida Giannini was looking to seduce this season – not only with her high-octane designs, but also with a new-found confidence. Enclosing her audience within a backdrop of mirrored walls, velvet furnishings, and a broody light, she opened the show with a series of dark leather looks – something that became a reference point for the entire collection. Silhouettes were sharp, clean, and at times, slightly reminiscent of an early 1950s post-war golden age, particularly seen in the nipped waists, round shoulders and cape-like shapes she created in her suits. In these looks, it really felt like Giannini was alluding to a new sort of power dressing, bringing infinite sex appeal by replacing traditional suit fabrics with black snakeskin, red pony, and an exotic metallic feather print.
It was really all about fabrication. Each look introduced another fur or skin, a new tone or print, and by the end of the show, it all became very heavily embellished. The final three looks, which consisted of feathered sheer cut-out dresses, could have been a beautifully contstructed take on a contemporary showgirl look. It was a collection that showed us what Giannini was capable of doing, the power she can construct, and the many fabrics she can do it in. If in the past the accessories shone bright, today was all about the clothes.