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Jil Sander Womenswear SS13

With a battle cry of 'Reset to Zero, the German designer returned to her eponymous label

They call it acid, the banging, thumping soundtrack that wove severity and austerity in Jil Sander's womenswear catwalk comeback. It was a jolt that certainly didn't make for a relaxing experience, coupled with the set's suspended block white canopy and platform. That might've alluded to the disconcerting feeling that some of this show's attendees had already made their mind up about Sander's third reign at the brand which bears her name. Yet, the fact is this Hamburg designer's vocabulary is one which influenced a generation of names at the top of the fashion tree today. Although dealing with concentrated, potent reductions still, she is expanding well beyond the microcosm of a great suit and perfect white shirt. We're living in a Tumblr, social media world and our climate has changed dramatically over the last 20 years – this collection of new proportions and silhouettes complete with its 'Reset to Zero' declaration acknowledged the complexity of life and regarded how women live and present themselves today. Doing so with instantly desirable boots and handheld bags pulled a thread – some things aren't so complicated after all.

"I liked how everything was balanced and considered," says Dazed's senior fashion editor Robbie Spencer. "The shoes felt like an intergal part of the clothing, and the white concaved in the middle catwalk with the lowered ceiling seemed to emulate the shapes of the collection. It seems that Jil Sander is bringing the brand back to its core DNA in order to move foward into a new era."