Being a designer in London has changed dramatically post-millennium. Even ten years ago you could glue gun a collection together in your front room and still be sellotaping on the way to the show. But not now. The internationality of fashion, further in-your-face thanks to the democracy of the internet, means that just-graduated 20 somethings now have to compete with the upper echelons of Paris and Milan because everything is everywhere. Difficult when they can't put the radiator on in winter and wince at the electric bill every time someone switches on the kettle.
Mary Katrantzou is at the crest, along with Christopher Kane, of the new British generation who combines that old-London ubiquity of art with the essential vigour of polish and production that's required today.
This season, the Greek talent glued pennies to her invites and printed stamps and macro detail of banknotes onto clothes that looked, well, on-the-money. A denim collaboration with Current/Elliott showed that for all her creative eye, she means business too.