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EXCLUSIVE: N.Hoolywood SS13

Hiding spraycans and authentic gait. We witnessed Daisuke Obana's pre-show preparations

Street casting can be a difficult process, especially when your muse of choice is skaters and graffiti artists, the modern day trickster. N.Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana traveled as far as a deserted skate park in the Far Rockaways a few days before his show scouting just the right look to fit his collection, which was inspired by street artists in the 70s and 80s, up to today. Pieces throughout the collection have extra hardware and pocket detailing inspired by the stealth way Daisuke noticed kids concealing spray paint cans in their sleeves and under their sweatshirts on the street. When scouting he is using those keen skills of observation to look for gait and posture, an authentic connection to the original inspiration, embodied in the physical bodies of street kids which no model can learn. It's this dedication to authenticity that keeps his streetwear inspired collection from just being a sportswear knockoff experiment that superficially references its progenitors. It's a funny bridge to build from the runway to the particularly anti-fashion, aggressively inconspicuous attitude inherent in most street artists, but perhaps it's that tension that keeps the clothes alive and interesting. Two worlds that never meant to meet. Dazed Digital attended the pre-show fitting, seen here and spoke to the designer...

Dazed Digital: Why do you prefer street casting for runway shows?
Daisuke Obana:
I like their gaze and I get to know more about the theme through working with those real people who are really related to my collection theme. I get a deeper understanding of the theme so that I can express more.

DD: What were you looking for this season in your models?
Daisuke Obana:
People who are related to this season's theme. Mainly people that live with street culture, for example we casted many skaters, artists, and real graffiti artists.

DD: How do you spot them?
Daisuke Obana:
I asked so many locals where to go, and we've done 4 seasons before so we have our own model file. With that file, we go to our favorite spots and keep looking and asking people.

DD: This being sort of a rebellious group, did you have a hard time finding participants?
Daisuke Obana:
Yes! We are having hard time just right now!!

DD: Where did you go in New York to scout models?
Daisuke Obana:
Skateparks (under the Manhattan Bridge, East Village etc), Bedford, Brooklyn flea, Rockaway Beach...

Photography Lahaina Alcantara