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Maison Martin Margiela Menswear S/S13

Chainmail, patches and house white

Metallics were slowly injected into the classic white canvas at Maison Martin Margiela this season, in the form of sleek espadrille footwear and embroidered waistcoats with a chainmail effect (actually made from drinks can ringpulls). The collection was a confident stride through the handbook of Margiela style as construction and decomposition ran through tailoring, with oversized touches that frequently appear within the maison's collections.

Vintage-inspired t-shirts and jackets made from huge collages of patches are the season's showstoppers, a cheeky contrast to the – of course – blanc-ness that permeated throughout the show. Deliberately treated, worn and re-purposed fabrics coincided with the natural ambiance of the live music – both were a story of light and shadow playing out.