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3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear S/S13

Art nouveau with street spirit

What started out as a pure, clean, crisp white series of looks for the first show of the day, was certainly a wake up call for the audience at Phillip Lim. While Lim has been known for his sportier take on classic shapes, this season saw him not exactly stray far from his signature but certainly introduce a few new ideas into his collection. Moving on from the white, minimal beginning, as the show picked up the Chinese-born designer brought in a variety of patterns, textures and colour. Layered on top of the white garments were blazers printed with floral and fauna motifs – art nouveau in burnt umber, stripes of green, blue and cream. A whole host of fabrics were also mixed in, velvets, denim and chambray all adding texture to the show. There was a sense of femininity to some of the pieces, something Lim has touched on in a number of collections, but this time it felt proud and confident. Like someone completely comfortable with themselves and willing to experiment in order to make an impact. While the show opened with more casual ideas, layered shirts, sweatshirts, bomber jackets and shorts, as it progressed the tailoring came through. It was structured, formal yet of course with that Lim twist that gave it an off-duty feel. This was a collection that built on where the designer had ventured previously, but opened up his aesthetic to a whole new group of people.