The menswear designer talks Felix Gonzalez-Torres and collaborates with Nasir Mazhar and Nike
Ahead of his Spring/Summer 13 show tomorrow, Lee Roach talks aesthetics and the influence of visual artist Felix Gonzalez-Torres to Dazed Digital, specifically works Untitled (Orpheus, twice) 1991; Untitled (Loverboy), 1990 and Double Fear 1987...
"People may look at what I do and see a commitment to enhancing garment construction, to minimalism and maybe to a modern menswear aesthetic but a defining factor influencing everything that I do is beauty (although very much from my own viewpoint of what is beautiful).
Felix Gonzalez-Torres can convey all the messages in his work in a simple and powerful beauty, nothing is overwrought and he has a lightness of touch that directly inspired me with this collection. I love how something as insignificant as a sheet of paper can become something powerful and beautiful through the force of repetition. I’m obsessed with the visual effect of adding or detracting from something.
My approach is very holistic with an obsessive attention to all details and my ultimate wish would to be able to create a total environment within which people can see the collections. With Gonzalez-Torres' work he has considered the environment an integral part of the piece with an amazing give/take between how he is impacting the environment and how the environment impacts the piece. If he places his work on a billboard the world around it gives it a context, as does the very fact that the work is on a commercial space, I would like to be able to make these types of choices to maximize the effect of how the collection is seen and its context in the world.
Spring/Summer 13 sees new collaborations including Lee Roach x Nike x Nasir Mazhar. In addition to this, the dominance of black is reduced as new fabrics and treatments are introduced."
Text: Lee Roach
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