Pink and red, chainmail dresses and the Olympics...
Katie Shillingford is Dazed & Confused's Senior Fashion Editor. A born and bred Londoner, she is a longtime collaborator and stylist of her friend Gareth Pugh. Shillingford works on catwalks, campaigns and editorials internationally.
The highlight of the weekend for me was Givenchy. The show started with three huge, circular strip lights flickering in a circular motion to the rhythm of what started off sounding like a horse galloping and seemed to turn into the revving of a motorbike
Dazed Digital: Viktor & Rolf was Sunday afternoon and you got straight back into checking out the collections after that! Do you have any highlights from over the weekend?
Katie Shillingford: When I’m working on shows I’m pining to get out there and watch some shows and when I’m watching the shows I think I’d rather be on the other side. So, it was a really great to finish the shows I’d been working on and see some others! The highlight of the weekend for me was Givenchy. The show started with three huge, circular strip lights flickering in a circular motion to the rhythm of what started off sounding like a horse galloping and seemed to turn into the revving of a motorbike.
Then the lights turned to full beam and the show began. There was a really powerful, strong energy to the music by Discodromo and a lot of excitement in the room. The amazing military-esque riding boots from the pre-collection saw another appearance and accompanied sharp equestrian tailored looks, fetishy leather and led to pops of red, then coloured negligée dresses. All of the girls wore large, quite tribal silver circle earrings. One of my favourite looks was the brown leather jumpsuit on Stella Tennant. I’m really looking forward to the re-see appoinment today to get a closer look – it’s really important to see and touch the collection, I think.
DD: How was Stella McCartney?
Katie Shillingford: I really enjoyed Stella. I especially liked the sporty looks at the end that patched tweed panels with technical fabrics in sexy little dresses with prudish high collars. Overall the collection seemed very influenced by sportswear: it felt like Stella was getting ready for the Olympics! Another highlight were the tweed dresses, peacoats and skirt suits that were very traditional in shape but all had a stripy baseball-style collar. Like very elegant, country sports cheerleaders! I also had my eye on a pair of oversized fuschia pink trousers that Aymeline Valade was wearing, but that’s because I’d like to wear them myself!
I really enjoyed Stella. I especially liked the sporty looks at the end that patched tweed panels with technical fabrics in sexy little dresses with prudish high collars
DD: Did you do any re-sees?
Katie Shillingford: Before Chloé we went to the Céline re-see. The collection was really beautiful. I loved all of it. I loved the clever twist of using soft leathers and PVCs in similar shapes or mixed together so you were not sure which was which. The jumpers made from stripes of coloured leather and fur panels were incredible as was the fur coat that looked relatively normal from the front – brown and blue – but was red, white and blue from the back. I also loved the pink fur coat and the use of pink and red together: it’s one of my favourite colour combos! The leather scarves (that looked like silk scarves) were also a highlight. As was popping into the shop below the showroom and investing in a small handbag!
At Chloé, I really liked the soft palette of the peachy pinks, ice blues, powdery yellows at the beginning of the show. The coat with the pink quilted satin on Nimue Smit and the pink quilted jumper worn by Kate King were highlights for me.
DD: What was the day's best moment?
Katie Shillingford: The Yves Saint Laurent show. One of my favourite girls of this season, the Dutch model Elza Luijendijk, opened and closed the show. Highlights were the slick scraped-back hair and rouge noir lips, tiny little waists belted in over heavy leather jumpers and t-shirts, cropped jackets coloured chain mail dresses and the lily print on sharp black and white suits. We thought a somber nod to Pilati’s last collection at YSL. He certainly went out with a bang, it was a beautiful collection received with a standing ovation. Quite a teary moment really.