Galloping horses, flat-pack clothing and Parisian glamour...
Karen Langley is Dazed & Confused's Fashion Director. Working on editorial, campaigns and catwalks internationally, this season she has notched up catwalk styling credits for Todd Lynn and Mark Fast's shows in London. In Paris Langley worked with Peachoo + Krejberg on their womenswear show.
There was some incredible fur tailoring [in the Givenchy show] and use of colour highlights in red and purple, this great earthy brown colour. An abundance of leather and a more sculptural use of it, with panelling and textures
Dazed Digital: What were your highlights of today?
Karen Langley: Well, we've just come out of Givenchy. There was some incredible fur tailoring, use of colour highlights in red and purple, this great earthy brown colour. An abundance of leather and a more sculptural use of it, with panelling and textures. All of the models had these great earrings and the casting was spot-on. The model's knee-high boots forced them to stomp down the catwalk in a particular way, which I loved.
The music was dramatic and got the pulse racing – there was the sound of a galloping horse at the beginning. Seeing this show made the season's trends hit home: womenswear inspired by masculine tailoring, the idea of the jockey or ringmaster. And the colours: this vibrant purple. Fur too, which is being used in a more experimental way, trimmed and inventive rather than bourgeois.
We also did a re-see at Comme. The concept was very simple this season, the premice being two panels of fabric fused together, flat-packed garments completely determined by the body that goes in it. The colours were a real hit of energy as were the fluro bobs. There was no music at the show, just the sound of the wooden shoes on the runway, and then, suddenly, when it cut to the second section of roses this eerie sci-fi soundtrack began, turning to classical.
It was great to see clothes up-close in the showroom. Junya was good, again masculine tailoring, deconstructed with the trousers attached. It's important to do a re-see as things get edited out for the catwalk, it's always exciting to see the extras for the first time.
DD: How was Kenzo?
Karen Langley: It was a great experience – like being in a futuristic shopping mall or airport. Fluorescent lights in different colours beamed on the floor depending on where you were sitting: in the blue section or the green section and such. All the girls came down on escalators and did laps of the different layers of the venue. So everyone was front row in a way.
DD: What's coming up tomorrow?
Karen Langley: YSL. It's the last collection of Stefano and I hope he goes out with a bang. There is this very Parisian idea of showing in beautiful, intimate venues and Yves Saint Laurent still adhere to that tradition. A YSL show feels very special, very decadent and luxurious...