Balenciaga, Inc and hair-raising antics...
Robbie Spencer is Senior Fashion Editor at Dazed & Confused. This season, he kicked off the New York shows by styling Richard Chai before putting together the menswear at McQ's brilliant London show. Spencer works on editorial, catwalks and campaigns internationally.
Dazed Digital: Did you enjoy Balenciaga? Ghesquière created a really special environment this season...
Robbie Spencer: The collection was really great, it has a kind of youth TV/sci-fi/Star Trek feel to it. The girls had slept-in looking hair with natural kinks and curls, that worked with those printed sweatshirts and frilled blouses underneath, really strengthening this youthful 1980s teen character.
This season the show was on the top floor of a new office block. We were greeted by staff of grey uniformed space cadets, all wearing Balanciaga menswear, standing to attention and attending the elevators. The lift took us to the top floor of the office block and we entered a room with wall-to-wall angular grey windows pertruding outwards, and white floors, realised by artist and longtime Ghesquière collaborator Dominique Gonzalez- Foerster. It felt like we had entered an intergalatic enterprise headquarters, with panoramic views of a gloomy Balenciaga metropolis. Actually we were looking over Paris but with the heavy clouds and smog and industrial buildings surrounding it looked quite surreal.
DD: Ann Demeulemeester had amazing hair courtesy of Eugene Souleiman. How was the show?
Robbie Spencer: The show was really beautiful, it is always such consistent vision. You always know to expect a certain stylistic handwriting at an Ann Demeulemeester show, but she always manages to add a new twist to her tribe with each collection. I loved the rich royal blue silk layering matched with black leather gloves and knee high boots.
The hair was really incredible – Eugene and his team used some product that seemed to make the girls' hair literally stand on end. Dazed's Casting Director Noah Shelley and Angus Munro did a great job with the casting — there is always this classic but unusual beauty to the casting.
DD: Did you have any other highlights?
Robbie Spencer: I really liked Delfina Delettrez's new jewellery collection. Rick Owens was really amazing this season – I loved the knitted beanies that covered the face with a graphic line. And to start the show with a strip of fire lit up across the begining of the catwalk! Panos Yiapanis, Rick Owens' longtime collaborator styled the show and again it was another amazing casting by Angus Munro and Noah Shelley.