The blogger on the first day's focus on young designers in the French capital
Susie Bubble is the founder of one of the world's most influential fashion blogs, Style Bubble. Former editor of Dazed Digital, she travels extensively with her work, colliding fashion styling with a reality context, always looking to find something new.
I thought Vaccarello's collection stepped it up a few notches with the introduction of more outerwear and covered up tailoring and there was colour for the first time too!
Dazed Digital: What does Paris mean to you? Do you look for different things than you would in NY, London or Milan? Or is it not so segregated in terms of philosophy anymore...
Susie Bubble: Paris is the culmination of the season. It can elevate and make concrete of what you've been feeling through the other fashion weeks. Traditionally it is the week where the season-changing shows take place and I think this is more or less the case. It feels more monumental I guess because the number of shows that are key moments in the season come thicker and faster in Paris than they do in other weeks.
That said, the gap feels like it's closing and New York, Milan and especially London feel like they all have something to contribute. The clichés about New York being commercial, London being creative, Milan being slick and Paris being the king feel somewhat tired. I think all four are fusing different attributes together and in every city, there are now always exceptions to buck the trend.
DD: How are you finding the mood of the season so far? This twisted, uneasy element is something that ran through the best A/W12 menswear, it's exciting that they seem to be more in sync than usual...
Susie Bubble: I'm actually still trying to get my head around it. I think that the uneasy and twisted element is something that you expect from an Autumn/Winter season and inevitably, things are a little darker. The themes of the season aren't as clear cut and literal as they were for last season and I think I like that murkiness and ambiguity. Evidently, people will draw conclusions about the state of the world, the economy and link that up to what we're seeing in the shows but I think it's a bit more complicated than that.
The themes of the season aren't as clear cut and literal as they were for last season and I think I like that murkiness and ambiguity
DD: The first day of Paris seems to have become really important in the last couple of seasons, with designers such as Anthony Vaccarello...
Susie Bubble: The first day is really about Paris' young designers and there really aren't that many of them. Cédric Charlier, who left Cacharel debuted his collection. Julien David, who I really love for his fusion of streetwear and high end womenswear is also interesting because he bucks the trend of Parisian designers in ateliers toiling away on red carpet dresses. His fabric research work that he does in Japan is really commendable. The day belonged to Anthony Vaccarello. OK, I'm a tad biased because I've known him for a long time but his rise has been meteoric and completely deserved. I thought this collection stepped it up a few notches with the introduction of more outerwear and covered up tailoring and there was colour for the first time too! He's really focused on building a brand and I think you'll see more exciting developments for him in the future.