High emotions and high fashion, as seen by AnOther Magazine's Fashion Editor
AnOther Magazine, our biannual sister title, has sent its Fashion Editor, Agata Belcen, to Milan. Here, she talks us through her Italian experience...
Dazed Digital: How has your Milan fashion week been?
Agata Belcen: It's been a very arresting week and very moving seeing Raf Simons who cares so much about his work and invests so much of himself in it, bid farewell to Jil Sander, a brand that he has made his own. The collection was a beautiful and serene end to his tripartite couture series of the last three seasons, unhinged by the final black looks, especially the strapless PVC dress. His voice is integral to the fashion industry as he's unapologetic in his vision of classic femininity mixed with unnerving realism – in his clothes you can read female characters who are immaculately turned out, but something unsettling lurks underneath, confined to a private sphere, while they get on with their daily duties.
There's also been quite a bit of turbulence in the air about other brand/designer relationships ending and new ones beginning. Now that Stefano Pilati's departure from YSL has been officially confirmed hopefully some unanswered questions will be answered. Suzy Menkes wrote an interesting piece in the Herald Tribune about this situation and how it's been going on since John Galliano left Dior.
I've seen a lot of astrakhan and fur around too. Sometimes it's expertly done and a creative addition to the collections. And sometimes it feels gratuitous and unnecessary, like it would have been happier on the little creature it came from.
DD: How was Missoni?
Agata Belcen: Missoni continued their push towards modernity this season with an interesting mix of latex among the knitwear. Tonight the Missonis are kindly opening up their family flat for one of their seasonal drinks – its very lovely and nurturing to spend the evening in their home.
DD: What were your thoughts on Versus?
Agata Belcen: Versus was dark and sexy. The hair styling was a continuation of what we saw at Prada with the hair worn long, poker straight and slicked back at the top. The colour palette of tie-dye shocking pink, yellow and purple, the leather lacing and slashed tops felt youthful. Versus is becoming a happy marriage of the brand as it was in its heyday and Christopher Kane's interest in council estates. And the relationship between the two design families is reinforcing the confidence of the Versace mainline also.
DD: What have you seen that you can't wait to shoot?
Agata Belcen: The various layers at Prada, their rubber soled shoes and plastic embellished tops. Anything from Jil Sander. The frouffy, lacy nightdresses and baroque knee high boots from Dolce & Gabbana.
Agata Belcen is Fashion Editor of AnOther Magazine.