Did the Punk Dame just pay tribute to the Queen's Diamond Jubilee?
Moving from her regular venue, the Royal Courts of Justice, to the equally regal but rather more intimate Goldsmiths Hall, the longstanding queen of British fashion showed a Red Label collection that seemed very personal. As always with Vivienne, it incorporated both her punk cross traditionalist style traits and her signature 'statement', this season centred on the beauty of the older woman. This season there were prints, seemingly inspired by Aboriginal art, abstracted barks and animal skins with a painterly effect, but colours were more muted than usual.
The pieces themselves seemed to take direct influence from aristocratic British society – could this be a nod to HRH's Diamond Jubilee? – with shapes simple and wearable. Tailoring featured heavily in various incarnations, with twinset skirt suits occurring throughout. Whilst riding influences appeared with capes and leather bodices referencing equestrian hardware. High waisted and belted pieces, trousers and fitted dresses, chiffon blouses, head scarves, pencil skirts and classic macs all cemented her take on 'old money'.
While she may not have been pushing herself in a particularly directional way with the shapes themselves, there were of course various pieces set into the show that made a mark: fluffed, hairy shoulder bags and glittering rayon outfits in turquoise for example. Overall though, this season was about strong, relevant clothes that can be worn again and again. Classic Vivienne, to marry opposites.