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Rue du Mail S/S 09

Martine Sitbon takes a more aggressive turn in her latest collection.

Martine Sitbon has always had a cult following because of her twist on silhouettes that are always pretty and poetic. For this season though, she has taken a very deliberate turn towards structure and looks to the future that shows a different facet to her designs for her label Rue de Mail which is now nearly two years old. There is a real emphasis on shape building best demonstrated by the organza tops that are made up of black circles and the white vents that jut out at the hips as angular peplums. The sex appeal was upped greatly and as the front row who were also dressed in Rue de Mail might be a bit shocked at the amount of mini dresses, sheer panels and shape shifting around the hips and bust area using the usual language of pleats, drapes and folds. For next season Rue du Mail fans will be toughing up with leather jackets, dresses that are pointy and also the tailoring which women have come to love so well about Sitbon's work.