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Miharayasuhiro Menswear A/W12

The Japanse designer's Insider Outsider collection looked closer at military uniforms set to a live soundtrack by guitarist Miyavi

There are two generations of Japanese designers showing during Paris Menswear... the old guard; your Miyakes, Yamamotos and Kawakubos - and then there's a younger generation that, wisely, have chosen to go in totally different direction from the old masters. Designers like Julius and Miharayasuhiro are part that new movement of creatives showing outside of Nippon. But Julius is quite niche and not for everyone with his dark fashion. Mihara, though, offers something that most people can relate to; clever solutions to everyday wardrobe problems. Mihara, except for being a lovely man, has enough quirky detailing to attract friends of avant-garde while also enough common sense to dress most men for work on a Tuesday.

In his Autumn Winter 2012 collection, 'Insider Outsider', this was visible through cropped suit trousers, Navy-inspired pea coats, check bombers in a tasteful green, yellow and navy combinations, a series of shearling garments and a cable knitted gilet. All of this swooshed by as Japanese guitarist Miyavi laid down an impressive solo beat with his instrument. The collection looked closer at unexpected ways of using certain fabrics; materials traditionally used for linings, for example, ended up as a shirt or a coat. Mihara also pulled off the improbable suit fabric of a shimmering golden camouflage pattern without blinking. That takes guts.

Dazed Digital: What were your main influences behind the collection?
Mihara Yasuhiro:
The main idea was uniforms. I was inspired by the US Navy... I made the golden embroideries on the cuffs of the coats, they were taken from the rank insignia on officers.

DD: Can you explain your Insider Outsider philosophy?
Mihara Yasuhiro:
The world is getting smaller and smaller, we are sharing more information - so there are less outsiders, but also less insiders - they have almost swapped places. So I took some of the details and fabrics from the inside of garments and put on the outside!