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Viktor & Rolf Menswear A/W12

The duo brought out quirky twists on formal suits and tuxedos with glittering red and green hues and Russian hats

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have always gone for that kind of tricky idea of making smart and elegant evening wear with added quirky twists. It's difficult for menswear designers to reinvent themselves on a good day, and to each season try and tackle tuxedos and formal suits with that approach is admirable. Sometimes they make it other seasons they lack that USP that the Viktor&Rolf brand was born with. Lucky for us, the Autumn Winter 2012 collection had a strong impact and the 'Monsieur' style worked on several levels.

Many of the coats and tuxedo jackets bore traces of influences from luxury interior design, with the elegant evening jackets glittering in red and green hues. But it was the inclusion of leather trousers to match the suave looks that made it work. Nappa leather dungarees aren't that common on the Paris catwalks, let alone in a Viktor&Rolf show. To top it off, many of the models wore Russian fur hats, furthering the idea of an unconventional gentleman. Quilted puffa jackets and check bombers also added to the mix.