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Yohji Yamamoto Menswear A/W12

Oversized hats, shawls and frock coats at the Japanese label were influenced by what seemed like 19th century uniform

Soft, oversized felt hats, blankets worn like shawls and dishevelled frock coats: Yamamoto’s latest collection could have easily been the costumes to Jim Jarmusch’s Dead Man. “This makes me want to re-conquer America”, muttered a journalist next to me – indeed, to the sound of Nick Drake’s sung poetry, Yamamoto sublimated and softened the conquest of The West, offering chunky boots, shiny golden buttons, and plenty of warm layers worn on top of heavy woollen suits, nudging at an imaginary 19th century uniform.

Deep red silk suits and embroided jackets brought a touch of Japan; cravats in crushed silk worn with a deconstructed conductor’s jacket added a touch of Mozart-chic to the moodboard - a reference highlighted by the soundtrack’s sudden “A Letter to Elisa”. As always with Yohji, the clothes question the notion of travel and freedom, and this time was no exception – only a couple of centuries ago.

Photography by Monica Feudi