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Sonia Rykiel Womenswear S/S12

1920s and 70s converge once again for this on point and jubilant collection

From last season's pensive left bank thinker who had a bit of steely glamour to her, the Sonia Rykiel girl has lightened up once more on a catwalk of bright yellow. Similarly, spirit raising yellows and oranges were the basis for this collection that concentrates on relaxed tailoring, misplaced tuxedo detailing where the black bands cut through all the springy white and yellow, and of course stripy knits that never fail to feel irrelevant. Wide legged trousers and dropped waisted dresses harked back to the 20s and 70s without ever getting too referential and merely borrowed some silhouettes to adapt into Sonia Rykiel's mode of exuberant French dressing. 

Sonia Rykiel has got a recognisable set of codes for new creative co-director April Crichton to play around with.  They didn't rest on their striped knit laurels though as they came in a new configuration as layered crop tops and unitard/leotard shapes. The ballet warm up theme continues onto into the softly pleated skirts and relaxed flowing dresses along with lace-up flat pumps that sometimes came raised with a platform. Whilst mostly solid, a floral print crept in towards the end as well as a graduated dress of flowing chiffon that made for a joyful ending. A bouquet of roses was presented to Sonia Rykiel herself, her unmistakable head of red hair echoing the fiery shades of the collection.