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Pedro Lourenco Womenswear S/S12

The Brazilian young gun creates collages inspired by constructivism and ecological architecture

It's difficult to treat the body like a piece of furniture or architecture without making the clothes too far removed from wearability but Pedro Lourenco, the young Brazilian designer did just that. Opening with leather jackets that create raised shoulders out of an interlocking loop of leather, Lourenco's directional intention is clear.  Every ensemble was a collage of textures and colours derived from eco-architecture and nature - sand, cement, silver, fringed beading made to look like glass or astroturf, copper and plastic. Nature vs. manmade once again rears its head as a slightly intellectual theme for the season, and here it manifests as an ultra strong vision for Lourenco's woman who has her hands in her pockets on top of the low-slung, for-the-street obi belts. 

Shoes represented foundations as coils of rope were worked into the heel and were accented with copper, a recurring thread in the collection that contrasts the shiny and the matte. Olivier Theyskens was present at the show , showing his support for the young designer who is impressively cutting his teeth in unforgiving Paris and doing a fine job of following the likes of Nicolas Ghesquiere down the path of fabric innovation and unexpected collages. Still, the similarity is not an unwelcome one when so few manage to get these material mixes right on.