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Rue du Mail Womenswear S/S12

Martine Sitbon once again turns out another collection that showcases her mastery of surface texture

You couldn't have asked for a collection with this much bang for your buck in terms of surface detailing. Martine Sitbon references a plethora of things like a flitting magpie that can't quite settle on an overall theme but that's quite satisfying to see when what was on display was such an enriched array of textures. Her Rue du Mail atelier was hard at work experimenting with Mexican flavoured embroidery on sheer topped dresses with accentuated pockets drawing decorative lines that were romantic without being saccharine. Complicated knit and crochet work looked like a cross-section view of a sandstone whilst texturisted flocking created a tactile looking surface that added 3-D depth to Sitbon's sweet frocks. 

A Chinese-inspired bird print danced its way across pleated dresses which then made way for a passage of beautiful smocking and raw-edged applique on jackets as well as a billowing set of mottled organza skirts and dresses that were stiffened at the hems.  The collection was certainly well-travelled in terms of geography and time which shouldn't have worked on paper but it was Sitbon's finesse and belief in her techniques that made this so captivating.