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Damir Doma Womenswear S/S12

The designer reached a zenith of spirituality and sensuality with his collection, showing billowing shapes and beautiful separates

Asking Damir Doma about the direction of his womenswear, you get the feeling that he's conscious about each womenswear collection being a work in progress, a stepping stone where he feels he can do better each time. He's bettered himself once more with a collection that had a refreshing lightness and sensuality that really felt like womens clothes as opposed to just plonking his menswear aesthetic onto a few dresses. Diaphanous layers of cobalt, chartreuse and rich greys were weighted down by brass palettes that streaked lapels haphazardly as well as neckpieces rounded off with chunks of pyrite.

There were a flurry of separates that as well as conveying zen spirituality also spoke to real women's needs as an ensemble could be easily dissected. The billowing shapes seen in jackets and dresses hat felt like new territory for Doma were counterbalanced with a rich array of textures - paper thin leathers, pleated silk, flowing crepes and lo and behold, a Normandy lace that isn't typical Doma fare but worked well in the context of a Doma's newfound feminine sensibility. The effect was visually arresting at times as it felt like Doma had really come to terms with what his woman could look like and that vision definitely made a few people sigh with happiness.

Dazed Digital: You had a newfound sensuality in the collection - tell us how you got to that?
Damir Doma: I think if you see it in the context of the last collection which was very precise and organised - not that it was a negative thing, I did want to move away from that. I wanted to have something that had a lightness and a sensuality, in opposition to the last one. By not losing my roots though as I integrated a lot of jewellery that weighted down the lightness.

DD: The richness of your menswear seems to have transferred over to your womenswear with the mix of textures.
Damir Doma:
You're given me the answer with your question! It was about finding the lightness with new materials it was about finding the lightness even in a material like leather. I also used a lace, which a season ago I wouldn't have thought of ever using. Also with the shapes like the balloon sleeves and skirts that wouldn't normally go with my style if you think about it. I found a way of linking the pureness and my sensibility with those sort of shapes.

DD: Do you think you've found your groove in womenswear?
Damir Doma:
I think after five seasons, I've reached the point where it's a real women's collection and my soul is in the collection. There aren't that many designers that can have a vision in both men and women's clothing and I'm glad that I have got to that point where I can do both.