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Rochas Womenswear S/S12

An array of cinematic references made for one of Marco Zanini's most intriguing collections to date

The season is finding new meaning in retroisms in more than few collections and Marco Zanini's collection for Rochas is no exception. This wasn't just about ticking off a trend or even about referencing Rochas archives. Instead Zanini turned to his favourite film references, whizzed it all up and turned out a show that made you go through everything. The Mars Attacks backcombed hair made the models troop out looking part-alien, part-robot especially when paired with the pristine silk satin coats, a stiff organza veil and you wonder what's hiding behind those cat-eye shades.

You recall Stepford Wives as it progressed into plisse organza dresses in pastel shades and debutante sequin midi dresses and skirts. This wasn't pure retrograding though as the shapes with their boxiness and surface-only elegance felt slightly unhinged and odd which is ultimately why they looked appealing. A chunky lurex sweater paired with a satin skirt that should have been printed with florals but instead was a scattering of machine cogs (the woman vs. machine theme ploughs on this season), was just the ticket for a lot of women at the show. Better yet were those lilliputian handbags that could have been iPhone cases but were in fact an oddball gesture that left you wondering who is this Rochas woman that Zanini was recalling and how can we look like her next season, backcombed hair, headscarf and all. 

Dazed Digital: Obviously there were a lot of cinematic references - can you tell us a bit about them?
Marco Zanini:
The collection is a vortex of cinematic references. I can't be specific. I just grabbed all of my favourite and faded memories of all my favourite films. I just wanted to project the polished perfection of that cinematic glamour in a way that felt right for today. There were different genres - sci-fi, British kitchen-sink drama, Hitchcock horror - all of that mixed together.

DD: There was something a little bit subversive about the collection though?
Marco Zanini:
Being yourself is truly subversive. Today with all the conformity, it's definitely about being yourself. This woman has a vision and that vision makes her different. The Rochas woman never wants to conform with any cliche. Never.