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Julien David Womenswear S/S12

The universe collapses and collides in this young designer's collection of jackets came with vertical darts and chiffon tops paired with relaxed peg leg trousers

Julien David hasn't been around the Paris show block for too long but showed a collection that was refreshingly out of step with what the rest of Paris is doing. That's a good thing by the by when you're playing with codes of relaxed streetwear as David does and doing it in immaculate fashion. Post tsunami and quake in Japan, where David spends a great deal of time working on fabric development and production, he became obsessed with the idea of the universe collapsing into itself. To that effect, dresses bunched up at the waist and flared out with a new found femininity, jackets came with vertical darts that went in and out like cracks in the ground and the prints were derived from David's in-depth research and imagination of this earth crunch. 

Dresses that felt springy along with light printed chiffon tops paired with relaxed peg leg trousers lightened things up in comparison to David's previous work. "I wanted to have a waist this time. I've done so many collections where the silhouette is very boyish and this time I wanted to have a waist but in my own way," explained David.  There was a positivity that was imbued in the prints as well as the springy silhouettes that was big on slouchy separates, matching up to David's passion for streetcar and its collusion with fashion that feels right again.