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Trussardi Womenswear S/S12

In his first womenswear collection for the Italian power house, Umit Benan looked towards Antonioni’s The Passenger for inspiration and showed suits in a 50s influenced style

In a collection inspired by Antonioni’s 'The Passenger', Umit Benan’s first womenswear collection for Trussardi offered an androgynous, 1950s travelwear collection – think bermuda shorts, waxed leather moccasins, button-up cotton shirts, complete with trench coats and hardcase leather suitcases. The materials, like the palette, remained inspired by classical menswear: light blues, beige, burgundy, on thick cotton or leather.

There were a fair amount of suits, pairing wide-leg, ankle-length pleated trousers and long blazers, with subtle, crocodile-skin belts and white shirts. Dark shirts appeared with their matching chino-inspired trousers, toned down by a baggy, off the shoulders jumper – all for a monochrome, tomboy result. Decisively feminine touches were infused into the line too: simple, ¾ length dresses were belted and effortlessly worn with heeled sandals – some reminiscent of an old-school nurse uniform, this further pushed the 1950s, practical wear into Trussardi’s new identity.

Dazed Digital: It’s your first womenswear collection for Trussardi, what were you trying to introduce into the brand?
Umit Benan: I’m trying to bring in a new generation and way of travelling. It’s what excites me about the company, the leatherwear and the suitcases they have been best know for. SO I want to bring back an old school way of traveling in a modern way

DD: How did you express this philosophy through the designs and fabrics?
Umit Benan: A lot of different textures and colors, combined, not meant to go well together, mixing all the tones— to reflect a confident, an intelligent woman. The aim was also for everything to be toned down, I didn’t want any girl or any piece to specifically stand out. I wanted to communicate the whole Trussardi project, the new Trussardi world and woman.

DD: Who is that woman then?
Umit Benan: She’s a girl travelling in a retro way, hand-carrying her suitcase, so choosing something out of her time makes you wonder if she got the idea from her grandmother. She’s part of a new generation of girls, a Woody Allen-like girl, intelligent, educated.

DD: It’s a tomboy-ish collection, where do you draw the line between the feminine and the masculine?
Umit Benan: There are different ways of presenting masculinity, she could be a very strong, masculine and vulgar woman; but instead, she is a very intelligent woman, relaxed, calmly confident: pleated high waisted pants, shirts – every look creates contrast: I try to brighten with bright classical, maybe a little boring pieces with bright blue materials for example.

DD: Do you view this as classically Italian?
Umit Benan: It goes well with the Trussardi family, she’s a woman who existed; I studied the family and found women like that in her family: it’s designed for them, worn by the grand-daughters.