It was another stunningly elegant collection from Roksanda Ilincic for Spring Summer, presented in the grand setting of the Institute of Directors on Pall Mall. With the models entering to the sound of Candi Staton's classic 'You Got the Love', reworked in a fittingly classical style and performed live on the piano, the mood was set. Silk in varying forms made up the majority of the show, flowing, falling and form fitting in all the right places. Long evening gowns were the mainstay of the collection, produced in a a distinctive but restricted palette of mustard, blues and pinks. Lengths were relatively low, falling below the knee in most cases, and draping from the chest.
Sleeves were either non existent or kept short for the season, a nod towards Roksanda's signature of producing incredibly well made, detailed and wearable designs. As the show progressed a number of more flamboyant looks interjected the mainly calm presentation, with puff ball dresses, pleated columns and contrasting woven cotton and linen arms set against the silk. Keeping the collection on this side of pret-a-porter, a few daywear pieces included cropped bomber jackets, crepe shirts with cutaway details, a herringbone style woven cotton two piece suit and a printed silk jacket. Floral embroidery, something we have seen in the majority of London's womenswear this season, also made an appearance, with hand stitched flowers adorning dresses and blouses.
Dazed Digital: Was there a theme behind this show? Roksanda Ilincic: No, not really? I always try to produce a collection that has more of a feeling to it rather than a theme, and s very much based on how I design and my signature. There was a bit of a mariners feel, which came through in the rope tie waists on some of the pieces, and perhaps something in the emblems embroidered, but really each collection is more about the way I make clothes than a particular influence.
DD: What about the shapes? Roksanda Ilincic: This season I had been looking at a lot of 60s couture and the shapes really came from there, you can see in the line and length, they are very much similar to those iconic designs from that era.
DD: Can you tell me about the embroidery? Roksanda Ilincic: The birds just added something really simple and fun but at the same time elegant and spohisticated. They are all individually hand embroidered so in a way it adds a bit of couture feel. As with the refernces in the shapes I was using, I wanted to add in a couture feel, so having them hand stitched did that, but at the same time I really wanted to make sure the collection could be made and sold. It is a pret-a-porter collection.
DD: The colour palette was strict this season, highlighted by the colour blocking. Where did that come from? Roksanda Ilincic: They are the colours that I generally use, or at eats variations on. I am influenced by what I see around me but really, as with the designs, its about my colours.