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Marios Schwab Womenswear S/S12

The designer's new collection was awash with beautifully regal monochrome evening dresses with undertones of chic sexiness

Although the long wait for the beginning of Marios Schwab's Spring Summer 2012 show, somewhere around an hour in what felt like 45 degree heat, and almost complete darkness, the collection itself was received with an aptly warm reception. Opening the show were beautiful black and white evening dresses in a lace style fabric that was panelled to give the impression of trestles in some cases. Slits went high up the leg adding glamour and sex to what, at first glance, seemed a rather regal collection. Crushed crystal detailed panels also added a very glam yet chic element, something gaudy but at he same time undeniably luxe. The oversized lace was repeated throughout, and in later pieces became something that resembled cut away detailing.

Tailored yet loose leg trousers added volume, as did slowing silk blouses, to an otherwise form fitting collection. The contrasting darks and lights moved away on occasion into lighter powdery blue, and a deep range hue which was seen in a chiffon layered gown. Taking a very different turn was a bodice wrap shawl-like one piece in a linen mix, still sexy but with a really natural grounded element. This followed through in the later palette of natural hues, creams and off whites. The occasional patent detail toughened things up, as did multiple layers of sheer silk and stiffened chiffon and a bold taffeta silk cocktail dress.

Dazed Digital: Who was the woman behind this season's collection?
Marios Schwab:
I have been thinking about this really strong woman, very hard, for a number of seasons now. I want to translate that in a way that is all about an independent exterior but at the same time kind of soft and still very feminine. Ultimately the woman that I like is an intellectual, that is my character and the person I am looking to dress. Someone that believes in fashion and in pure design.

DD: You regularly use cut away details, laces and transparent layers in your pieces. Were does that come from?
Marios Schwab:
I like to dissect the garment and show what is underneath the garment, the body that is below. I think that as a boy I was always interested in why and how we hide the body so I like to play tribute to it by putting it onto the surface of the garment. Its a way of creating a garment that accentuates and elevates the forms and shapes of the body.

DD: What textiles and prints were you working with this season?
Marios Schwab:
These particular dresses are all lace and then I call the prints 'mirage' as it is really a way of creating an optical illusion of movement inside the dress, which is quite fresh and new. Making a new format was always one of my interests, I don't like ultimately classic pieces. I get inspired by them but I want to move them forwards one step.