Pin It

Julien MacDonald Womenswear S/S12

Asian influences were visible on slick body-con dresses with a biker feel and quilted leather details that gave the collection a tough and armour-like look

Julien MacDonald's collection felt almost futuristic with its combination of Asia-inspired influences and super modern ideas. Opening with technical and developed fabrics teamed with slick body-con dresses with a biker feel, quilted leather features giving an tough almost armour-like look, the first few looks to come out had a harshness that felt upper-class in its superiority. Back detailing and cut-outs were seen in almost all pieces, along with plenty of layering. Contrast played a big part in the strength of the looks, black and white moving into beige and the odd flash of colour. Sheer additions gave a looser and perhaps more elegant touch, juxtaposed against the powerfulness of this seasons woman overall.

Dazed Digital: So tell me about the inspiration behind this collection?
Julien MacDonald: Last summer I did soft and romantic and for the winter I did Rock n' Roll, so I started thinking about how I could push another idea this season. Everyone is really inspired by luxury and modern things, everyone dreams of Monte Carlo and St. Tropez so that was really my starting point.

DD: What was it about those places that inspired you?
Julien MacDonald:  When you get there you see these huge beautiful yachts, the ultimate in luxury. Inside them they have the most incredible refinement in terms of leather and metal work technique, only reachable by this super jetset.

DD: How did that translate into the designs?
Julien MacDonald: Thats why we started the show plasticised transparent rubber knit with transparent silk thread running through, it is ultra modern. The leather is all bonded with jersey and inspired by the inside of a yacht. I then starting thinking about where these boats go and where I have I not been. I thought about Asia, China and Japan and went on an exploration of the Far-East. Thats where the blue and white print comes from, is actually a really old wood print that we developed.

I then connected the waves from the boat inspiration into the dragons from the East. I started to think about the Japanese tattooed men, the Yacuza, so I used a super sheer and embroidered tattoo designs onto them. Then we added in leather and rubber to make it really technical.

DD: Where did the contrasting blacks and whites shot through with the acidic yellows come from?
Julien MacDonald: It was all about that modernity again, the show started with a beating of a drum which came from Japanese warriors, the sunglasses came from Porsche who are the ultimate again in luxury cars. My woman is all about sport and speed, so the black and white came from this idea of graphic strength and then the colour added some fun. The beige came from the chicness of the inside of a boat, I wanted to use colours that felt expensive.