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Thom Browne Womenswear S/S12

Performance and spectacle were central to the designer's 1920s cocktail party inspired collection, littered with sharp tailoring and never-ending sleeves

True to form, Thom Browne put on yet another of his spectacular shows on Monday afternoon. As much a performance as a catwalk show, Browne had rented out a room in the New York Library again and had his models play out a cocktail party from the 1920s. But with all the cheek kissing, loud music and chit chat, it could have been any contemporary fashion party! The girls started out in predominately grey tailoring, but soon Browne changed gear and brought out jackers with head high shoulders, coats with floor long lapels. never-ending sleeves, duck necklaces and tulip tops. As the girls worked the room, talking to each other, we just couldn't stop staring. There was so many details to take in. Not all of them were exaggerated and OTT... Browne also just a great seersucker fabric for shorts, showed a sleeveless camel cashmere coat, added a bit of colour through yellow stripes and check patterns, and a great cropped bomber jacket. 

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point this time around?
Thom Browne:
1920s, film noir, silent movies. These were the inspiration for some of the more surreal, rather than realistic, aspects of the collection. That all played into the proportions of the clothing.

DD: Yeah, there were oversized collars, extra long sleeves etc...
Thom Browne:
Yeah, I mean that's what I like to do, I like to exaggerate. For me these shows are about heightening the experience.

DD: Where does the duck fit into all of this?
Thom Browne:
That was just a funny thing... didn't have anything to do any of it really!

DD: And then there was the the tulip flower of course...
Thom Browne:
Yeah that was playing with bustiers from the 20s!

DD: Is there a piece in the collection that sums it up?
Thom Browne:
The first suit with the flared and pleated shorts. I love tailoring for girls, but making sure it looks sexy on them!