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Y-3 Womenswear S/S12

Luxe fabrics in streamlined cuts via jersey dresses and army-inspired jackets once again showed why the Japanese designer's collaboration with the sportswear giant works so well

Adidas and Yamamoto was not only one of the first designer/sportswear collaborations, but one of the consistently best examples of why it is such a good idea to mix luxe fabrics with smart cuts and athletic details. The stuff of Y-3 is what people actually want to wear; comfortable, loose, adjustable and durable clothing. Add to that the eye of a sartorial master and we have a killer combination. With the help of Dirk Schönberger, the Spring Summer collection for next year, once again shown on Mercer Street in Soho, boasted the classic Japanese cigar styled trousers, army inspired jackets and sporty anoraks.

The main colour was Yamamotian black, with added olive green for the military influences. A tartan-esque fabric featured throughout, sometimes in orange, sometimes in green. Faded or underneath a sheer fabric, the material and colour ways added a sense of playfulness to the show. That feeling was furthered by a checkerboard suit in black and white for men and fluffy fabric tails on a few of the girls. 

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point?
Dirk Schönberger: It was Yohji's idea to do something with the London Olympics next year. But not too literal and to create a clash between Yohji's world and the Adidas Olympic world. 

DD: How and where did we see that?
Dirk Schönberger: There were a few nods towards the Union Jack flag and few parka coats.

DD: And maybe the tartan print... ?
Dirk Schönberger:
It's of course quite difficult for a Japanese designer to look at Britain when designing so the tartan comes to mind quite quickly. But he worked on it quite playfully, so it wasn't too literal, more about changing colours and fading it out.

DD: Yeah, a tartan in green or orange doesn't scream England, does it?
Dirk Schönberger:
No and that's what Yohji is about, his message is more subtle, yet powerful. 

DD: Did you use UK fabrics as well?
Dirk Schönberger: Not really. That's where the two companies meet. We used more sporty and athletic fabrics. 

DD: Do you have a fave piece?
Dirk Schönberger: The parka coat with classic Adidas tracksuit sleeves, with three stripes. And for women I like the jersey dresses, very fluid. Super chic and elegant sportswear!