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Damir Doma Menswear S/S12

Straps, golden chest plates and wraparound jackets dominated his latest Parisian catwalk show

No one else really does things like Damir Doma. It might not be for the masses, but isn't that the point? He's always mixed his Balkan heritage with his continetal European habits and, as this collection showed, elements from the Oriental. As always there were hints of martial arts uniforms in the clothes. But the biggest singular theme to come out of Doma's S/S show on Saturday evening was his use of black straps on the torso. Collar less coats are staple pieces by now and we saw his long tunics - in olive green and beige -sticking out underneath them.

A nice surprise was the black and blue colour combo which broke Doma's monochrome tradition. But more than anything the shimmering gold trousers got the attention they deserved. A few jackets had backs made out of a sheer material, other looks were dominated by long mesh knits, but one of the strongest pieces was a black wraparound jacket using the straps for closure. The last few models wore shining chest plates attached to the elastic straps. 

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for this collection?
Damir Doma:
It was a book by William Klein called Rome, and from there I went to loads of post-war Italian inspirations. 

DD: I loved the blue colours you started using this season...
Damir Doma:
Yes, there were lots of what we called Royal colours, like the blue and the gold!

DD: And there was an usual amount of stripes in there as well!?
Damir Doma:
It was the next step. I had a very directional collection last season and that just felt like the next step for me!

DD: What about the chest plates, are they yours or made in collaboration with someone?
Damir Doma:
They are actually made by my sister! There's an Art Deco feeling to them!

DD: I know you don't like singling pieces out but is there a piece that is a bit special to you?
Damir Doma:
I like the first look, it's a naked body with trousers and straps, it worked very well. And towards the end of the collection I started doing more tailoring which I enjoyed!