This season, Julius’ show began by confirming what we already know about him: all black can do no wrong. He added a new twist to the leather looks he offered last seasons: light, sheer ensembles, draping, and cargo-pants punctuated his otherwise monochrome outfits. The result offered an atmosphere mid-way between army wear and Ancient Greek silhouettes. The colour palette expanded to grays and and off-white.
His collection seemed to investigate the boundaries of the feminine and the masculine – a question that he answered by creating a hybrid body, both effeminate and aggressively male. He did so by transferring archetypical elements from the female wardrobe into men’s lingo: leather bras and skirts, alongside army boots and leather trench coats. One notable look consisted of a black maxi-skirt with a large frontal slit, worn with a calfskin bra, necklace and arm bands - all worn by a transvestite, hotter-than-Kate, long-haired model. The collection in a nutshell? Dystopian, fearless, hermaphrodite.
