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Julius Menswear S/S12

Julius breaks the boundaries between the masculine and the feminine, with leather bras alongside cargo pants and trench coats

This season, Julius’ show began by confirming what we already know about him: all black can do no wrong. He added a new twist to the leather looks he offered last seasons: light, sheer ensembles, draping, and cargo-pants punctuated his otherwise monochrome outfits. The result offered an atmosphere mid-way between army wear and Ancient Greek silhouettes. The colour palette expanded to grays and and off-white.

His collection seemed to investigate the boundaries of the feminine and the masculine – a question that he answered by creating a hybrid body, both effeminate and aggressively male. He did so by transferring archetypical elements from the female wardrobe into men’s lingo: leather bras and skirts, alongside army boots and leather trench coats. One notable look consisted of a black maxi-skirt with a large frontal slit, worn with a calfskin bra, necklace and arm bands - all worn by a transvestite, hotter-than-Kate, long-haired model. The collection in a nutshell? Dystopian, fearless, hermaphrodite.