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Adam Kimmel Menswear S/S12

The NY-based designer presents his first Paris Fashion Week show with elements of 'dark surfing with a psychedelic undertone'

For his first ever Paris catwalk show, the New York designer moved on from Snoop Doggs, cowboys, George Condo masks and focused on surfers. But the idea was to move away from the traditional surf stereotypes and add a darker tone to their wardrobe. Kimmel called the collection ''dark Surfing with a Psychedelic undertone''. The show was a master class in what we have come to expect from Kimmel; clothes that fit your everyday wardrobe but with subtle details, great quality and an extensive thought process behind them.

In mostly black, olive green and a blue grey the collection featured bare foot models and cropped trousers, casual suits overbutton down shirts, sweaters and knitwear tops. Detachable hoods - one of them in a striking red - added functionality to the show, and the over dyed Hawaii print added attitude, and formed the obvious link to the surf theme. A couple of waxed cotton jackets in varying length also turned up, but it was a washed out blue suit with zip pockets that impressed the most.

Dazed Digital: So there was a surf theme for the collection, how did that come about?
Adam Kimmel:
It's something I picked up in the air, the starting point was these kids in San Diego I know. They're total, you know, punk kids and you just gotta love 'em. Their style is incredible, they wear lots of dark colours and they don't look like normal surf kids. I adapted that in to an entire wardrobe of that attitude.

DD: How's that visible on the catwalk?
Adam Kimmel:
I don't know - I just wanted it to be what it was. I wasn't thinking about making too much of an statement on the catwalk. I want guys to look at it and think 'Yeah, I can wear that'!

DD: There seemed to be a dark camo print in there...
Adam Kimmel:
It's actually an over dyed Hawaiian print!

DD: You seem to be looking a lot towards the west coast and mid America for inspiration with this surfer theme and last season's lumberjack looks. Doesn't New York influence you?
Adam Kimmel:
It all starts from New York - it's all about what we want to wear in New York!

DD: Any pieces that stand out for you?
Adam Kimmel:
The over dyed pieces and the knits with neoprene elbow patches. And the tailoring - I have slimmed down the cut for this season!