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Rick Owens Menswear S/S12

Long silhouettes with floor-skimming coats and gowns were presented, creating a semi-religious undertone evident throughout the collection

Enforcing his title as the Paris Master of Techno Tailoring, Rick Owens went for a floor length silhouette at his Tuesday lunchtime slot. Long gowns in beige and white almost touched the catwalk while serene and meditative beats played at his usual Bercy venue. Also the coats were slim and long, adding to the monk-esque look. A few cropped jackets appeared, often teamed up with layered fine knit tops for that famous Rick Owens aesthetic. Many tops and gowns came with a stripe pattern resembling pyramid-like shapes. If that's the chosen uniform for Rick Owens' new semi-religious fashion cult, I'll sign up any day of the week.

Dazed Digital: What was the red thread running through the collection?
Rick Owens:
What I normally think of when I consider menswear; I think men want dignity, I think they want wisdom, they want a certain kind of gravitas - and that's kind of what I did. Keep it quiet, keep it simple and elegant.

DD: A few looks were almost angel-like in their white gowns...
Rick Owens:
Really? I wanted them to cult leaders, I wanted them to be Jim Jones! I was thinking more in that direction, especially with the sunglasses!

DD: Yeah, there were quite a few semi-religious undertones... 
Rick Owens:
There alwyays, in my own little way!

DD: What about the stripes resembling pyramids?
Rick Owens:
Just really good graphics; strong stripes. What could be more spring than that?

DD: Any piece that sticks out to you as one that sums up the collection?
Rick Owens:
The gowns. They're great, really nice to wear. You should try one!

DD: What sort of fabrics did you use?
Rick Owens:
I used seersucker!  I just thought 'what's the fabric that's the most opposite to me?' and I used that. It was used in gowns, suits and even seersucker leather...

Photos by Dan Lecca